Day 70 (6/Dec/2017): Finisterre to Muxia (29km)


Muxia ring dumma do dumma da…
The journey to Muxia was bound to be an anticlimax after the intensity of the experience of arriving in Finisterre after three days on the road from Santiago with such good companions. I walked alone, since I left the noisy dormitory of the albergue earlier than most people and sat down to have breakfast and update this journal in the only cafe that was open. It turns out that Raffael, Marco, and Lucia had breakfast in the cafe upstairs, which opened later – They set off before me and I caught up with them at the albergue in Muxia.
Walking alone does not bother me. But walking alone among cliquey huddles of self-obsessed people can be a bit sad. I focused on enjoying the scenery, which was pleasant – a walk through forest with a few stretches of coastal path. The path was quite hard and there were a few climbs and descents, but nothing very challenging. The weather was fine – some light cloud. I’m fortunate that the rain has held off for the entire time that I’ve been in this part of Galicia by the Atlantic. The forecast for the next week is dire – rain every day.
I arrived at around five to a bureaucratic welcome at the municipal albergue. The hospitalero was listening to music on his headphones and reading something on his computer. I said “Hola!” and he asked me for my documents, so I said “Buenos tardes,” and he replied with a grudging “Buenos tardes.” I suppose it’s a drag to have to be nice to pilgrims on a national holiday. He checked my passport and verified that I had a stamp from Finisterre and a stamp from Lires, the halfway point of today’s walk. This is a requirement for staying at the albergue, to prevent people who take the bus from benefiting from the hospitality. Then he gave me my disposable sheet and pillow case and told me the rules of the establishment – Doors close at 10pm etc.
In the evening I went with Marco, Raffael and Lucia for a seafood meal to celebrate her birthday and the cheerful conversation lifted my mood. There’s a bus at 2:30pm to Santiago, which will give me enough time to explore this tiny port town.

Categories: 2017 Camino Mozarabe (Almeria to Finisterre)

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